What components should be part of night creams and how to cleanse the skin? Experts explain why washing “before the squeak” is not good for the skin, and they tell the whole truth about popular beauty gadgets.
1. Do not clean the skin “to squeak”.
There are many misconceptions about how to cleanse the skin. All of these Korean “multi-stage washing systems” that Europeans are not suitable for, in principle, or illiterate tips from glossy magazines to throw tonic out of a makeup bag altogether … All this from uneducation, unfortunately.
As for proper washing, there is such a stereotype: if you cleanse your face “to squeak” – it means it is clean. But you and I live in the 21st century, it’s time to learn how to hear your skin.
What is a creak? This is an indication that you have removed the lipid layer that protected the skin. And you just deleted it. What happens after? The skin abruptly presses the SOS button, because it urgently needs to replenish the hydrolipidic balance. Hence the appearance of excessive shine, because the “frightened” sebaceous glands begin to work intensively. Remember that the slightest mechanical effect (for example, an improperly selected cleansing method or gommage) creates micro-damage, and over time it develops into an inflammatory process or the appearance of wrinkles.
2. Refuse tap water.
Use city running water only if you cannot live without it. And I recommend that you cleanse your face and remove makeup exclusively with micellar water or hydrophilic oil, using cotton pads.
That is, you do not need to use washing products in combination with tap water – this method is too radical, the skin dries from it, and the chlorine contained in the water violates its natural pH balance. Of course, this rule does not apply to mineral water – you can just buy in bottles and use to cleanse your face.
3. Use only synthetic granule peels.
I mean only products with synthetic granules – they are the only ones that do not injure the skin. When we work on the face with a scrub or peeling, we don’t see how much damage the skin does: microtraumas develop into wrinkles, inflammation or, for example, into noticeable capillaries.
4. Swelling under the eyes in the morning – a consequence of malnutrition.
Spicy or salty foods, a large amount of carbohydrates at night, non-compliance with the drinking regime can cause a violation of the water-salt balance. If you have a predisposition to swelling, first of all, limit your fluid intake 3-4 hours before bedtime.
5. Wash problematic skin with cool water and use a tonic.
To get rid of acne, it is important to maintain hydrolipidic and acidic barriers. Frequent cleansing does not allow this.
Wash with cool water using neutral pH gels – hot expands the ducts of the sebaceous glands.
After cleansing, be sure to use a tonic that is necessary to neutralize the alkaline environment, which creates an excellent atmosphere for infections. Ideally, if the tonic contains extracts of herbs with the calming and antibacterial effect of chamomile, aloe, calendula, tea tree. In general, tonic is essential for any type of skin.
6. Use creams with retinol only in the evening.
Retinol is a moody component. Vitamin A is sensitive to UV rays and oxygen. In cosmetics, retinol is contained in the form of retinoids enclosed in a tiny capsule.
Pay attention to concentration. It should vary from 0.1% to 1%. I want to draw attention to the use of drugs with retinol there is an absolute contraindication: pregnancy! There are studies proving that retinoids can interfere with fetal development.
Creams with retinol are best used in the evening – during the day they can provoke pigmentation. In the summer, agents with retinol are also prohibited.
7. Do not use daytime products in the evening
Dividing creams into day and night is not just a marketing ploy. The composition of the daytime, in addition to moisturizers, includes ingredients that protect the skin from ultraviolet radiation, temperature changes and other adverse environmental factors. Night creams also contain a more nutritious, thick foundation, so they can not be used under the tonal basis. Until the age of 25, I would recommend using a universal product suitable for skin type. But after, you need to separate the creams for day and night.
8. Do not use highly foaming cleansers.
Rule: the more foam, the cleaner the skin – does not work. Excellent foaming ability indicates the presence in the composition of chemicals that destroy the natural barrier of the skin. The result of this can be dermatitis, premature aging and pigmentation. When choosing a cleanser, give preference to products with a high content of fatty acids and mild cleansing components.
9. If you have oily skin, use oils for care.
Experts say that restructuring the functioning of the sebaceous glands to produce less sebum can only be done with oils! They can be applied under a night cream or used as a standalone product.
10. If you have combination and oily skin, use non-comedogenic cleansers.
Look for “non-comedogenic” on cleansing cosmetics for combination skin – such products do not clog pores. Mineral oils, oleic alcohol, lanolin, butyl stearate, isostearate, myristate, peach seed oil should not be in the composition. These are comedogenic components.
11. If you have problem skin, use vitamin B3 night creams.
The main task of vitamin B3 is to restore the barrier functions of the skin. The component promotes cell renewal, increases tone and elasticity, and also has a pronounced anti-inflammatory effect (inflammation can lead to a decrease in collagen synthesis). Niacinamine is an antioxidant that fights free radicals, one of the causes of premature aging. It allows you to soften the skin, neutralize redness, effective in combating acne and other rashes.
12. Do not give up funds with surfactants.
No need to be afraid of surfactants (surfactants) and look for products that do not contain them at all. Without surfactants, you cannot effectively cleanse the skin – the remnants of cosmetics and pollution caused by the environment, affect much worse than mild cleansing components.
13. Do not hold the cleanser on the skin.
A cleanser is not a mask. If you have soaped your face and want the makeup to dissolve, do not leave the foam for more than 20-30 seconds. Tip: it is better to soap the skin 2-3 times, and rinse immediately than hold for a long time.
14. Always rinse micellar water.
All hydrophilic oils and micellar water must be washed off! And not just water, but a cleansing foam.
If a product dissolves mascara and foundation, imagine what it can do with the skin! Micelles are lipids (oily substances) that cannot be washed off without the aid of foam or gel. A simple comparison: if you wipe a dirty plate with vegetable oil, the food that sticks to it will get wet and go away, but the surface of the plate will still remain greasy. So with the skin!
15. Sponges for washing – absolutely not.
I am strongly against sponges and sponges for the face – this is a hotbed of bacteria, you can never rinse them properly. The only option is to wash your face with a new sponge every time.
16. If you use a brush – boil the nozzle.
Electric brushes like Clarisonic are a good way to cleanse, replacing a scrub. I advise you to use them no more than 1-2 times a week. But like sponges, brushes get dirty quickly – you can’t imagine how many bacteria remain between the villi even after washing with soap. Therefore, my advice is to spray the nozzle with boiling water before each use.
17. Choose night creams with peptides in the composition.
The composition of the night cream must include peptides – these are essentially the same amino acids connected in small chemical chains. Amino acids are the main components of proteins, a building material for cells.
Which peptides are used as part of the cream depends on each specific manufacturer, but they have one thing in common – they are able to penetrate dead skin cells and stimulate the synthesis of collagen, the so-called “skin youth protein”. In simple terms, peptides are able to control processes that occur at the cellular level. Including the aging process, slowing it down, of course.
18. Use night creams with hyaluronic acid, not collagen in the composition.
Some creams in their composition do not contain hyaluronic acid, but collagen. In cosmetology, there are huge doubts about the fact that collagen in the structure of the cream itself is capable of exerting an anti-aging effect on the skin. It is poorly absorbed by cells, and it can only be in the composition of serums or injections, and even specialists can not come to a consensus about the justification of its use.
Another thing is hyaluronic acid, which stimulates the production of collagen and is really able to slow down the aging process and maintain elasticity. “Hyaluron” also works in day cream, but is absorbed most actively at night – precisely for the reason that at night the cells regenerate more intensively and are more susceptible to external influences.
19. Use creams with vitamin C in the evening.
Vitamin C is a powerful antioxidant, one of the most important components that stimulate biochemical reactions in the fight against oxidizing agents and “culprits of aging”. It is best used for night care, as this is one of the ingredients that can cause a hypersensitivity reaction. It is also not worth saturating the skin with “usefulness” – during the day we use antioxidants and SPF filters, we do not need to add very active vitamin C to this “cocktail”.
20. Use night creams with acids in the composition.
Citric, malic, glycolic, lactic, pyruvic and tartaric acids are acids that contribute to the natural self-renewal of cells, restore water balance, and reduce hyperpigmentation. The mechanism of their action is still not fully understood. One hypothesis suggests that AHAs reduce the concentration of calcium ions in the epidermis, which promotes cell growth, thereby making the skin more youthful.
Glycolic acids (Glycolic acid) – the most common.